Once the hill, sometimes uphill. During these first three weeks of the new year saw a really beautiful place. And were also the first moments of resignation (which Patagonia can quickly quell his landscapes).
all began with Chile Torres del Paine, which, as we have accepted graciously when it comes to the weather (read: we had a chance to see the famous' torresy "in all its glory, but unfortunately only from afar; of other hand, many tourists, whom we met so far had to override the internet or photos with a guide ...). The second day, when he finally we have come to the same vantage point, unfortunately, covered the tops of the clouds in August. Hope stupid mother - sat stubbornly in place of 3h. It got to and from multiplier, terribly windy, so in a small cave under a huge boulder waited the sun. Sun was, yes, but after other side of the valley - which also had its charms, because when it rained on our side we could admire a beautiful rainbow. And when wyludnilo longer rest we had the honor to be witnesses to snap a piece of rock, which they scattered in the "small" Poppy got the idea to the lake in Torres del Paine. The weather deteriorated overnight and we had to spend guards in the tent of the National Park because we began to leak again. As it turned out , tent guards (the guards were sleeping in a hut) leaked even more. On the way to the exit of the Park we found the Polish language. And so began our adventure continued ...
in Torres del Paine we met a few graduates of the Inter-Environmental Studies , whom is known for great our old building WGiSR. There were so many common themes. And besides, common theme was also in Warsaw 'Shop Travelers'! Justin and Michelle because of the very short time you can devote to rent a car rental would be more 'mobile'. It ended up so that with them we went from Puerto Natales to Argentina in the direction of El Calafate. And in El Calafate - oriented 100% on last wyduszenie centavos pocket backpackers - shop at the souvenir shop, with regional products, logos everywhere characteristic "windstopperow" (which just does not say the Patagonia is doing a career), "gore-TeX", "vibramow. Approach to the tourist as the money is mine Turks zniechcajace awful. What, unfortunately, find out you can not just at the gas station, on which liter of petrol to foreigners is a half times more expensive than for locals, but also at the entrance to Los Glaciares National Park ... We paid 150% of the ticket price of admission to the park, which had to pay our friends a Germany - two days earlier. A change of prices did not know even the administration of the National Park Los Glaciares, in which you wanted to get comprehensive information, and dz iewczyna charging for admission, the ¿Porque a question? responded casually: "I do not know. Because the price change in August." Patagonia is probably unique in the world when it comes to unexpected price increases. It is strongly undercut our wings, but an hour later we stood before the forehead Glacier Perito Moreno.
I forgot about everything ... (Yes, we forgot because of its amazing look, it seemed that just drips from the sky. And the blue color of the ice, they pierce crackles called via continuous movement!)
From El Calafate, still with Justin and Michal We traveled to El Chalten, on the north edge of Los Glaciares National Park. Here too we the road after the two parted ways on (but not weave in August when we return to Polish!). El Chalten - tiny, little, with the empty shelves, an Internet site directly to a really, with fantastic views of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre pointed. Yes, even we thought that we will have quite as El Chalten. Because when we'd leave when the We saw what we had to see, when I waited on the roadside exit, trying to catch a hitch all day (WARNING, WARNING! Catching the foot on the side of the road we met a fellow in geography!), It turned out that the gets this way in the northern direction Ruta 40 we have no chance.
Ruta Nacional 40 . legendary, leading through beautiful areas i. ..
cursed by drivers and hitchhikers.
reason? The road is gravel, in a deplorable state. On the next bus to Perito Moreno, the last two vacancies waited 5 days. For a variety nicknamed further flood threat in the tent (the plans of sleeping in the hut with an ATM failed when skleilismy the garbage bags of them doing covers for mate, sleeping bag and myself. The plan worked, because when you have already packed in bags, like a corpse wrapped We lay and waited until we begin to leak floor - it stopped raining! bags with rubbish in the miracles.) El Chalten pozegnalo our 2.5-hour waiting for late bus (see photo). Really We left from there with relief ...
Cudny Fitz Roy. In the full day, at night in the moonlight and sunrise.
Waiting for the bus to "train" in El Chaltén. Looked like the homeless, wrapped in sleeping bags, toes were falling off the cold. Construction of the terminal is in full swing! Construction of the building is, indeed, is an information board, yes - the artist, the price of the project, yes. Only 9 days not seen any worker who moved to brick though. So in three words: siesta, fiesta, Mañana.
next day, in the afternoon we arrived to the town of Perito Moreno. The city is quite expansive as the name of the village - 3500 inhabitants. We get off the bus, just time for siesta. I already begin to break down with no further we went right away ... Neither a soul, but the wind is raging on the road and poured dust on his eyes. We are going ahead in search of any campground. These streets such bland, these shops so empty, barred ... Marnie will be our attempt to look like a hitchhiking trip from there. If it turns out, with no seats in coaches for the next day ...
But it was only a moment of weakness! We've drifted to the first encountered "camping." Barely approach to the gate investigate situations - a small house, a simple and poor as all around, with many small trawniczek, some drivers, two tents on the cross. And then goes to our owner, speaks to us with such speed that we can not keep up. Almost anything we do not understand, do not know about is happening, we do not know how to find in his kitchen, the book draws entries honoring Polish tourists, gesturing, smiling. Totally insane. This already is Raul. Raul, with whom we spent the next two days, we fell from the sky just like an angel. Hospitality, a good heart, picked up on the help of the spirit that we felt like we just started the trip, fatigue is gone, he added energy to us. Evenings, we recite their own poems, treated the all I had (and had their own vegetable garden, which was just a blessing for us. chives, parsley, peas and fresh salad ...). Anyone who will go to the Perito Moreno, porzuconemu somewhere in the middle of the wilds of the northern part of the province of Santa Cruz, with all my heart you can stop for a while on Minicampingu Raul. If only, in order to know it. Some will say that the madman. Maybe a little, and lives in his swecie, but it is really a great man, cares tremendously about camping. Certainly we find that after these two months is already Miniamping Raül was the cleanest and most well kept the place in which up to now we find ourselves. The Perito Moreno tried to hitch a ride to the Cueva de las Manos (in mountain boots because apparently after a walk can Ruta 40 lethal scorpions) - cave, the walls that appear paintings dating back more than 9000 years. Unfortunately. 4h looking at your feet or just do not accidentally crush a scorpion, and nothing. No one even stopped. Unfortunately will not look to us with their own eyes the Cueva de las Manos. Tomorrow we're going to Esquel! (Coach, because in the last minute we managed to buy tickets for him - driving by at the rate we would have no chance).
with Raul on Minicampingu
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