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Last moments in Argentina ... Well

more memories, unfortunately, no longer Harvest during this trip - chapter closes. Cos we feel the skin, the next we will be collecting in Asia, but some time must elapse yet ...

backpacks packed, the last walk, the last meeting with friends, the last steps of tango in Argentina. Families and friends and everyone else thank you for all the support in e-mails and comments!

... and see you in a few days in the "spring" Poland!

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circle closes ... Autumn

Great Buenos Aires! With pleasure we return to this city. We stop in the same place where we lived before nearly four months ago. Here, all this began - here, we were hungry, and eagerly waited impressions to start the trip. Here too, everything ends - thousands of pictures, thousands of miles, hundreds of memories, knowledge contained dziasiatki. And only a few days ahead of us. The way we already do not think that anything else that I need to plan ahead.

In Buenos Aires, the upper line in the districts, to visit whom we ran out of time last time. In the colorful La Boca, in the heart of the old San Telmo we watch couples dancing tango performances. Climate nooks, music everywhere, and street artists ...

All for a few days will end, but for now we are still here - in the hot sun, in the Latin American atmosphere. So how can we use a good-bye and set off for a concert of music and professional tango dance lessons in Buenos Aires!

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Montevideo in the rhythm of tango.

Mauro, Natalie, and we did. Intend to travel to the world, during which you will
earn dancing tango.
Chances are, with Poland and we will have a chance to see them in action:)

New country, new impressions. We live in a young couple (wedding took place in August 1920 February!) and very quickly found a common language. What's more - we had become Polish cooks and teachers, Mauro and Natalia however are our teachers and guides to tango capital of Uruguay! On the first day of beautiful weather (Montevideo welcomed us in the autumn storms and torrential rains. It was hard on the legs were supported by walking through a windy, gray streets of the city) take us on a trip to the city scooters. We admire the sandy beaches stretching along the entire city, various districts of the city can differ in many respects, old buildings, parks and squares. Az beautiful weather finally turns into a tropical storm. Pink lightning rend the sky, warm rain beating with great speed in the exposed parts of the body (well, just what was surely the 30 degrees!) mercilessly hurt. Within a few minutes the streets, under the covers a huge storm clouds, t in the darkness and turn into a violent streams. Everything soaked to the skin and the smiles on their lips ...


we went with Natalie topic comments mens on the street.
Not to mention the registration of personal watercraft.


Rozswietlone downtown and old town of Montevideo
- the view from Cerro neighborhood in which you live.


District is a district of Cerro Immigrants (Practically the whole population of Uruguay are immigrants). Among the street names we found and Polish! However, it seems that this is one of the worst quality of the street (practically, it simply does not exist - in places it looks like a path between the bushes wydetana), what we have seen so far in Montevideo ...

Uruguayans - regardless of everything - always with a thermos and mate under the armpit. This even happens in churches. In Uruguay mate is much more popular than in Argentina (in Argentina, although not przypuszcalismy that this is impossible). According to previous observations, the inhabitants of each of the visited countries so far (except Bolivia, which is a completely different world) they think the same food and habits happened to be the most characteristic of their homeland. And everywhere, when you share our observations, we meet with major mines and mild indignation!


Tango ... Our first steps tango give the impression that were to be backed up with passion ... Music and dance pulls us, makes a great pleasure and after the second lesson we already have a successful first basic figures. But unfortunately our stay in Montevideo coming to an end, and science will have to continue in Poland. What will come of this - we'll see!


also spent a little time to observe the hummingbirds, who would like to arrive to the patio. Believe me, this picture is a hummingbird and this is one of the best photos that we managed to do. These small wonders of nature are simply elusive ...

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With Salty-measure quickly moved to one of the oldest cities in Argentinian (size dorownujacemu Warsaw). Cordoba was founded with the end of the sixteenth century. The city of course, retains the character of most Latin American - layout of the streets here as everywhere like checkerboards. Cordoba, between the new, multi-storey buildings hidden treasures of world heritage by UNESCO. Streets besieged by crowds.

live on the outskirts of town, again using the hospitality of people belonging to the Hospitality Club. At home, we find after a few Poles podrozojacych America more or less as much time as we do. Magda Adam, however, are traveling by a completely different route, so it was nice to powymieniac their experience and insights. After one day it comes out that once we met already in Warsaw, and we have mutual friends!

Fatima no longer traveling in August gives us so much to enjoy exploring the city. We go in search of the Polish community in Cordoba, guided by the following specified address. Unfortunately - and this time it does not end successfully. What's more, it could end up bad, because by chance we find in the seemingly quiet in August, but dangerous districts of the city, and we become victims of assault niedoszlymi. The fact is that if the thieves really depended on the theft, that they did not have the slightest problem with the two of us (they were three young men). Fortunately, only one of them showed the greatest aggression so using the opportunity to przepychankach ran out into the streets, on which (for our help) came up two floors coach excursion. He opened the door and jumped into gear inside ... The driver then offered us a drink, Argentine alfajores cookies and warned that Cordoba is safe for tourists only in the center. We got on the bus station.

It was bad, it must be better: A chance encounter in August for a promotional bus tickets from Cordoba to Montevideo - direct, at a low price! Amazing - are the place to-morrow, and will be first-class coach to the extent then we took. Without thinking about buying tickets. We need something new, in Uruguay was not even us ... So, tomorrow we leave!

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XVI century Cordoba Argentina, Argentina! Back to civilization. Marathon

bus to the border of Argentina's boliwijsko drove off. Drove off on time. What's more - drove off ahead of time, so we had only hope that everyone who would like him I take - did so. Because the fact that people are more than places of sitting of anything not provided. The journey proceeded without major surprises. Among the smaller became one again, and the stench of burning engine problems running it several times to coach. So nothing serious.

Crossing the border did not cause any problems, nor had to pay for anything, przetrzepywali nor our luggage - one could say with some we felt unsatisfied and disappointed: it went like clockwork. We were also able to cheat on coach Salty! We drove at night and only then started to search luggage ... Twice we blew up police stations in the middle of the night, lined in queues with the luggage and more or less scrupulous police took out things from your bags and searching for the items, suitcases, etc. Many obmacujac bag of coca leaves he found in August, but despite that the coca Argentina is illegal, the police was looking at it seriously.

In Salta we also met a surprise, this time from the accommodation - the first time, Hospitality Club has failed, what seems apparent with "niedogadania" between family members, so not wishing to cause trouble and live in an atmosphere skwaszonej we went to look for cheap hostel.
live rally in the city center. Churches, cathedrals, monuments, colonial architecture and random visits to a family of Polish origin when searching Kola Poles in Salt - as time passes. Our bodies after a long stayed at altitudes dochodza to each other and we can breathe peacefully full breastfeeding.

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problems, surprises and adventures. BOLIVIA. Dry

Bolivia. Here, for the first time it was said to us "gringos." Here we had the first big problem (luckily not threatening our life:)). Here, the first time we felt like in the developing country August. Bolivia stands out in every way from Argentina and Chile, with whom we can already say something and we have strong opinions. Bolivia threw us on their knees with their landscapes and wonders of nature. Delighted that the tradition alive, as you can see at every step. But for 7 days spent so far in Bolivia befallen us more problems than the whole trip together. Problems arising everywhere, nasty surprises, adventures. But what would be a four-month trip without problems? ... And it was this:

Already at the border of Chile-Bolivia appears first problem. Previously we examined the information regarding the border crossing, visa and other requirements set at the entrance to Bolivia. Not a word on stamp. The fee was not very high, but the problem lay in the fact that we had with you only deducted for the bus to the border to the Chilean peso Uyuni. The two places we learned about the cost of bus ticket. Already at the end of the road when one of the drivers began to collect money for the tickets (which you can feel or not we got did not see the eyes), it turns out that there are nearly a half times more expensive. Immediately after arriving to Uyuni we go to an ATM so I would pay the remainder of money for tickets. On the streets of Uyuni carnival is in full swing (it is one of the last of his days.) It is hard to penetrate the dry ATM (the love of every Bolivian - old and young - is probably during the carnival throwing water balloons at passers-by and flow around guns (rifles in order ... bazukami!) of water.)

Traditionally clad women, the traditional "bar street" in Uyuni

ATM does not work. It is Sunday afternoon. Monday and Tuesday is a national holiday, during which the party in the streets in August increases. ATM these days does not intend to start working. Debt, a handful of Bolivian money (luckily it operates office and we had a remnant Argentinean pesos) we had before him visions of starvation for 2 days and live in hostels on credit. Bread and water or less starczyly the experience, He was also, unfortunately, the height at which we were, and to which we were not accustomed to. Slight headache, fatigue, rapid heartbeat. So since past 2.5 days (plus fleeing before flying balloons with water, but unfortunately without success - we felt like beaten dogs). On the fourth day - after the end of carnival opened the bank! And started to repair ATM! Hope grows in her eyes. Before an ATM is thirty tourists. Behind us, over time, the second set behind. The first successful extract money, finished in an ovation ... after 40 minutes and we have money! Overdue payments to homes, also paid a three-day trip to the region of Potosi and two hours later sitting in a Toyota Land Cruiser dziurawymi road racing toward world's largest saline soils - Salar de Uyuni.

Endless Salt farmland, houses and hotels made from salt, cacti kilkunastometrowe with more than 1,200 years. Volcanoes, geysers, hot magma of the earth. Colorful lakes, flamingos, llamas and vicuña. Fancy shapes of rocks, deserts. Everything in the company of four other tourists, and gay couples Bolivia - Dalia our cook and driver / conductor Franz (both were 20 years old and had already experienced workers).

trip a success wonderfully. We could finally off of Uyuni and our local problems. The only thing that stood in our way to altitude sickness (reduced coca leaves). We stayed at over 4200 meters (with gusts of up to 5300), to which our bodies have not had time to get used.

Salt field on the horizon

rocks, rocks, rocks ...

organoleptic test in progress ... Result: Oh, elephant, elephant!

Salar de Uyuni is amazing ...

Close encounters with nature


Island Incahuasi

Lamy also walk traditionally dressed.

Unfortunately, the whole sorry to say,

the meat of llamas much we tasted.

mushroom rock truest, truest geyser.

fabulous colors Bolivian wasteland

Vicuña against flamencos

After returning from a trip, a bit tired but with smiles on their lips, and an unimaginable number of photos waiting for us last, a short night Uyuni. About 5:30 is to be substituted by coach to Villazón - the city lying on the border with Argentina. The weather broke, at sunrise penetrating cold uprzykrzalo we wait for the late coach of course. Arrived at 8:00 and really only then the problems started. Trip, having last for 9-10h turns into misery. At a time when the blog takes longer replenished 27.5 h. Roads in Bolivia poprzecinaly fast-flowing rivers. Before one of them had to wait, surrounded by beautiful dunes (which are beautiful but then underestimated), and the water level. Drops, falls or not? In total, it is not known. The driver says that we have to wait, so we wait.

waiting in the desert until the water level the river drops and you'll be able to keep going ...

with two rolls and a bottle of water in a backpack ... 4 hours later we set off and with my heart in my throat cross river. Coach carnage, tilts, roar, and finally leaves for the other side ... Then I was waiting us many stops (at every opportunity, when the smoke fill the interior of the coach about the smell of burning engine with an obstacle on the road were lying in a frayed the edges of stones). After nearly 12 hours, we reach the first town where we had to be after 3 - 4 hours of driving. On the spot turns out that we will go no further, because the bus is not suitable for this. We look forward to the substitution of another. Moments later, however, the driver changes his mind and says that today we will not go at all, because in the mountains and rain can be very dangerous on the roads. We spend the night in a coach standing in the parking lot in town, curled in a Chinese "9". In the morning, before sunrise we set off the same bus (the night he found a city engineer, first unfolded and then paid a coach for parts - I think successfully). Another, very slow passage through the mountains, canyons and beautiful abyss to Tupizy, where he finally kiss goodbye to the old coach and wait for change to the boundary. We had to wait 40 minutes, wait more than 4 hours ...

And just at that moment forward. Keep your fingers crossed for it to coach drove off on time (or at all drove off) and reached the place! And lest the border boliwijsko Argentina's tax collector is not doing none of the problems who knows what ...

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enough!

crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, and we are the driest desert in the world. Atacama. In some places there was no rainfall throughout the history of the research. Currently we are in the city of Calama. It is our stop on the way to Bolivia - we managed to get tickets to Uyuni! What was the big unknown, because many Chilean companies, the sound of traffic on the word Uyuni ladies in the window with amazement did okrale eyes. About Bolivia heard, but a few calls with her.

Travelling from Santiago to the north with their own eyes we could find about the impact of the Humboldt cold and misty Atacamie (which many times it was rolled on geography lessons and lectures) - is hot, drive through the desert sprouting high, porozczapierzanymi cacti. On the left side of the misty Pacific and huge waves crashing on the rocky coast. On the right side driven by the wind, low-slung clouds.

in inches so we need to spend two nights, but unfortunately one day is zamalo to visit San Pedro de Atacama. In San Pedro more sensitive to what tourists may suffer from altitude sickness (the village lies at an altitude of 4100m above sea level). Certainly worth a visit: Valley of the Moon, geysers, volcanoes, salary ... but that's another time. Now I am sympathetic in a desert climate Calamy. By day, hot, at sunset the temperature drops drastically to a few degrees above zero. Clear skies, around the city a total wasteland, no plants. Here and there, apparently, saguaro cacti, thorny shrubs and other plants, where you have enough moisture for survival derived from the air.

A few interesting Calama itself has to offer. Although the city is quite large (150 000 inhabitants), worth (though maybe the word and it is an overstatement) is seeing only the main square and the nearby promenade.

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From Ocean to Ocean.

He was the Atlantic, was also Pacific:

just 120km from Santiago, are situated very interesting, stretched the hills, coastal Chilean city of Valparaiso and Viña del Mar. Though next to each other, are completely different. But both have had a positive impression on us - especially Valparaiso. Over the ocean was much more mechano, but at the same time the sun was stronger - which is not felt, and then re przyplacily our noses (now red again.) In South America there is no forgive ...

Valparaiso is the main port of Chile. Poor, with the contrasts, delights architecture, colors, and the location. Valparaiso is the starting point Locations · ¨, to whose tourists come to stroll by narrow winding streets to the slopes, visit the most spectacularly situated cafes (Postcards appearing on all of the region), know the taste of the port city. Although it is not clear, it is climate and is in itself something a prospective ¨. In the shadow of the buildings have stalled lazy cats, dogs stretch in August. Here and there, inviting straganiki and incitement to buy nuts in sugar, tubes with dulce de leche or chilled drinks. Life is running slowly ...

A Viña del Mar? Viña del Mar is another. A lovely beach (Playa Acapulco Copacabana Chilean, though much colder water) and the next them multi, glass apartment buildings. Modernity and the fashion show. Here tourists stay longer, spend more money (even in Argentina, we wondered what the Viña del Mar - at every step, if only in Mendoza, posters and advertisements were visible trips to Viña del Mar). Expensive hotels built on the rocks next to the ocean, casinos, streets lined with rows of palm trees. Luxury in South America song festival. There is no room for the poor, begging for wandering dogs. Just the piston and the haste ...

And what next? Moves to the north of Chile, to Antofagasty. There you choose - depending on the availability of transport - Or Bolivia and Salar de Uyuni, or Atacama. One thing is certain: will be interesting.

__________________________

PS. Very sorry, but zedytowac text you can not, for unknown reasons, so I will be in one place, larger spacing between lines of text. And besides, it can not replace seats for 2-3 days (more is not included in the game) with someone from the Polish to be able to pozagrzebywac although some in the snow! Waiting for porpozycje:)

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the other side of the Andes.

Hospitality Club has countless advantages. It's hard for us is to get together and go from Mendoza, so the moment of departure postponed for one day to be served to our friends the power of a typical Polish cuisine. In Argentina luckily we get in stores sugar (as in Chile, unfortunately, turns out to be unrealistic), so the traditional pork chops with potatoes and cabbage beaten we could variegate beet salad (ech. .. South American cuisine is not bad, but we just no substitute for Polish tastes.) What it is like pierogies on Christmas Eve, it got furore!

farewell dinner at the home of Julian climate

trip to Santiago de Chile was not too boring. Kilkunastoosobowy busik with wypadajacymi door, dragged uphill from the corner bend in the Andes Cordillera, only to turn abroad start to roll down probably one of the most spectacular serpentine world (border crossing called Los Libertadores)! From across the street, barely puffing, which move huge truck passed us (they are larger here than in Europe). No barriers, merry, loud music busiku (plus fall out the door, which now luckily did not fare), the cold wind in your hair (because he was terrorized by busik senior Chilean, who did not allow anyone to close the window, while he sat in his jacket), tens of nets and bags (Chileans were returning home after shopping in Mendoza) and dozens of turns. Still missing in the middle of the cage with the chickens and the screaming children. The nearly eight hour crossing by Andy definitely more like a South American transport than all those luxury two-storey coaches courting travelers (excluding this, in which air conditioning did not work.)

SANTIAGO DE CHILE

people live again in the Hospitality Club. At the heart of the city - the red-hot. The temperature in Santiago oscillates around 33 degrees - the city is unfortunately not as shady streets of Mendoza, high buildings heated air is stopped, thousands of cars, thousands of people. Over streets and sidewalks waving air rises. We leave the house and seething with the best life: In every corner of the street straganiki with ridiculously cheap and incredibly delicious fruit (Oh, Argentina! Had you had money like Chile ...) - we gorge ourselves with sweet strawberries, grapes, peaches, watermelons. August Opijamy typical Chilean mote con huesillas - in the translation into Polish is a lint compote of dried peaches with grits! Wonderfully quenches thirst and satisfied. The city is friendly, modern and quite nice. It pleased us since the first steps that we focused on its streets. I like it more and more a measure of learning (especially after a crazy night in salsotece, where they kidnapped us to dance with you sixty lady! But nobody on the dance floor was not able to match them! Latinos May dance in the blood - young, old, fat and thin - all roztanczeni, laughing.)

In salsotece ...

:)

Visiting Santiago appeared at the character of Ignatius Domeyko. Reading the guide books, maps and watching digging on the internet we have endeavored to find the how much information about a Polish scientist, who is known for much more in Chile than in Poland. Deserved in the study of Chilean minerals (even his name was called he discovered mineral - Domeykite) meteorite found in the Atacama desert several times he was elected rector of the Universidad de Chile, on which also lectured. His research gave opportunities for the development of the mining industry in Chile, which accelerated the development of the whole country.

Domeyko Street in Santiago de Chile and the house of the Polish scientist

bust in Domeyko Museo Nacional

Grob
Cemetery The main

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with a view of the roof of the Americas. Bodegas y

observed so far in the Andes from Mendoza wall seemed so gray and uniform. However, the more zaglebialismy on between ever higher peaks, they exerted on us more and more impressive. Massive and so messed up. Geological mess. Variety of colors, layers, folding. Red turns into brown, gray. Here and there, white, greenish influences. Waterfalls, valleys, sucholubne plants, various cacti. Everything on the background of deep blue sky. The bus is moving forward hard - 180km from the city, non-stop uphill. Slowly clears threshold value of 2000m height difference. And from there, from the village of Puente del Inca, where we can admire the natural rock bridge, go a few miles away, because I come face to face with the world's highest mountain outside the Himalayas. Aconcagua. Towering over the surrounding peaks. Powerful, covered with glaciers. Simply beautiful ...

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degustación ... ie Contd. Mendoza. From Bariloche to

Learning Mendoza and surrounding areas (we, like most tourists, we visited the nearby Maipu) can not do without a bodega tour and wine tasting. Vineyards and olive groves, snow-capped Andes, the sun and wine. Nothing more, nothing less.

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Basin Argentinean wine. MENDOZA!

few pictures of Bariloche, and words about the trip to Mendoza:


main square in San Carlos de Bariloche


City obcieka just chocolate. At every corner sweet shops, beautiful exhibition, sweet smell ... You must have a lot of willpower, or be a low-budget tourists, not to be lured! With us is not so bad - the famous skosztowalismy inches Argentina Store. Nice, but did not pierce czekoladziarni Wedel!


Lake Nahuel Huapi and siesta in the warm sunshine ...

few days in the National Park Nahuel Huapi and time in a way. The next, our goal is a region Argentinian wines - Mendoza. Of course, tried to climb the mountain by hitchhiking, but it ended up being a success. Unfortunately, only coach the next day. We spent the night at a bus terminal looking like a homeless. But we were not the only ones (at least not been so cold as in El Chalten and we had a roof over your head.) The next day, "already" at 13:00 drove from Bariloche. With the vision fresh and wyspania the coach. The vision disappeared when it turned out the air conditioning in "high class" coach does not want to work. 19h ride before us, in the heat. It was not a pleasant experience - one thing is certain - we will not relax succeed. Nightmarish 19h, obciekajace then go past slowly. Malaise somewhat compensated views through the window and our first-place in a coach - on the first floor, with the windshield:

to Mendoza in the morning we arrived the next day. Immediately we experienced price shock, when the station you kindly pressed the brochure advertises our hostel in the center, where a double room with breakfast and free Internet access costs half or one third of what zaplacilibysmy in Patagonia. But they do not use the offer, because we stop in Mendoza August in Agentynczyka The Hospitality Club. Luckily, We find him at home before you go to work. So a few days in Mendoza and the surrounding area in front of us ...

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El Bolson - San Carlos de Bariloche.

El Bolson subsequent visits and farewell dinner with the pilots of Aeroclub. In total, sat with them half a day, drinking mate, talking on all subjects that only saliva on the language will bring. And dreaming ... dreaming about flying! Amazingly, we were only their first visitors.

with Mario and Alejandro (with Polish roots) spent a evening.
possible that we still have a chance to meet in Poland!

My
Car ¨ °!

The next day we finally managed to catch some interest on the Ruta 40! Distance is not did the special impression (from El Bolson to Bariloche is just 120km - Argentinian conditions is less than ° a stone's throw ¨). Impressed us was that it stopped a pick-up carrying cherries. So in the midst of the cherry, with a raging wind in your hair started to travel. Disappoint in August just as the driver after a certain time (when only a fellow got out) invited us inside. Maybe, well, on the other hand ...
to San Carlos de Bariloche we arrived without any surprises-smoothly and evenly on the asphalt (which is placed here only less than 10 years ago). City surprised us in appearance, although they already we were inclined to what is seen by the guides and pictures from the Internet. But it is for us, after driving from the north of Patagonia to the south and back, just do not like Argentina. Resort, the crowds of tourists, hotel hotel, chocolate factory, museums, stylized market. Everything pulls tourists to empty wallets. Bariloche - situated on Lake Nahuel Huapi, national park of the same name - which actually has to offer - around is simply beautiful.

Denise Milani Working At A Desk

we become the wind and fruuuu smiglo ....

El Bolson. City hippisowska really envelops the atmosphere. The main square is obstapiony crowds. Crowds of backpackers, mostly Argentines, as well as families who attracts a large extent from Buenos Aires the holiday trip. City surrounded by mountains in the Andes, near the border with Chile. Situated in a green valley - the climate is completely different than in the dry Esquel and Perito Moreno. Here goes half of our trip. We intend to "celebrate" and we're going to watching the match River Plate - Boca Juniors in the local pub. Truly Latin American atmosphere:).

It's not the end of the attraction ... El Bolson has its own flying club. Early in the morning, with a smile glued to his face like a banana, I thought only about this, in order to break away from the earth. And it happened! Slightly starawa Cessna floats us into the air. Oh, those views ... snow-capped peaks, rivers, valleys opening up beneath our feet. Dolatujemy the Park National Lago Puelo - between the hills pours the blue lake. Just wonderfully ...

with our remote control - Mario


Andy ...


... and aperture to the Río Azul Lago Puelo

Another interesting thing - the runway is our old Dromader Polish production, whose Argetnynczycy they use as a firefighting aircraft in the event of fires. ..
What a pleasant surprise, to see a well-known since childhood, "PZL" on the propeller
.

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Esquel - Trevelin.

Chubut. Province, which has so far accounted for perhaps the most to our taste. Not only because of the atmosphere (well, just perfect, 26 degrees, the sun - neither cold nor too hot), but the nature of cities. Natural values \u200b\u200b- as everywhere so far - compelling. Self Esquel (nearly 40 000 inhabitants) is situated between the picturesque mountains of severe slopes and jagged peaks. Well, as a backpacker I have to mention of course the prices. Just available. And of course we could not bypass the huge - if not the largest outside the nearby National Park, Los Alerces - a tourist attraction, which is an old Patagonian express La Trochita . A beautiful steam locomotive stretching string of small, wooden wagons narrow gauge lines. And in every car crowds of tourists, who bought a ride for the sum kilkunastokilometrowa "niebackpackerskie.


In Esquel we spend three days in the meantime visit the nearby town of Trevelin - highly recommended in Lonely Planet. So we went - and how! However, the term Trevelin as "postcard-pretty" is probably a bit exaggerated. Trevelin is two times bigger than the Perito Moreno, actually nicer. Visible Welsh character (perhaps only three - four places in the city, although I will not argue, because I was not in Wales, so I do not know!). What we should pay attention to the main square, from which radial streets radiate like the spokes of the wheels. As the city Argentinian is really a sensation. But already the square next to the beginning of a typical, regular grid of streets, dividing the city in "blocks". Offsite should even see the church of the Welsh character and one - two teahouses. In Trevelin spent pore siesta. As probably half of the residents, lay in the shade of big trees in the square and watched as a few older Argentyczykow playing a game (using discs, closer to us not known) at the doping wives.

Our next goal is El Bolson! Dominated in the 70s by hippies.

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Addendum: Torres del Paine - Perito Moreno.

Once the hill, sometimes uphill. During these first three weeks of the new year saw a really beautiful place. And were also the first moments of resignation (which Patagonia can quickly quell his landscapes).

all began with Chile Torres del Paine, which, as we have accepted graciously when it comes to the weather (read: we had a chance to see the famous' torresy "in all its glory, but unfortunately only from afar; of other hand, many tourists, whom we met so far had to override the internet or photos with a guide ...). The second day, when he finally we have come to the same vantage point, unfortunately, covered the tops of the clouds in August. Hope stupid mother - sat stubbornly in place of 3h. It got to and from multiplier, terribly windy, so in a small cave under a huge boulder waited the sun. Sun was, yes, but after other side of the valley - which also had its charms, because when it rained on our side we could admire a beautiful rainbow. And when wyludnilo longer rest we had the honor to be witnesses to snap a piece of rock, which they scattered in the "small" Poppy got the idea to the lake in Torres del Paine. The weather deteriorated overnight and we had to spend guards in the tent of the National Park because we began to leak again. As it turned out , tent guards (the guards were sleeping in a hut) leaked even more. On the way to the exit of the Park we found the Polish language. And so began our adventure continued ...




in Torres del Paine we met a few graduates of the Inter-Environmental Studies , whom is known for great our old building WGiSR. There were so many common themes. And besides, common theme was also in Warsaw 'Shop Travelers'! Justin and Michelle because of the very short time you can devote to rent a car rental would be more 'mobile'. It ended up so that with them we went from Puerto Natales to Argentina in the direction of El Calafate. And in El Calafate - oriented 100% on last wyduszenie centavos pocket backpackers - shop at the souvenir shop, with regional products, logos everywhere characteristic "windstopperow" (which just does not say the Patagonia is doing a career), "gore-TeX", "vibramow. Approach to the tourist as the money is mine Turks zniechcajace awful. What, unfortunately, find out you can not just at the gas station, on which liter of petrol to foreigners is a half times more expensive than for locals, but also at the entrance to Los Glaciares National Park ... We paid 150% of the ticket price of admission to the park, which had to pay our friends a Germany - two days earlier. A change of prices did not know even the administration of the National Park Los Glaciares, in which you wanted to get comprehensive information, and dz iewczyna charging for admission, the ¿Porque a question? responded casually: "I do not know. Because the price change in August." Patagonia is probably unique in the world when it comes to unexpected price increases. It is strongly undercut our wings, but an hour later we stood before the forehead Glacier Perito Moreno.
I forgot about everything ... (Yes, we forgot because of its amazing look, it seemed that just drips from the sky. And the blue color of the ice, they pierce crackles called via continuous movement!)


From El Calafate, still with Justin and Michal We traveled to El Chalten, on the north edge of Los Glaciares National Park. Here too we the road after the two parted ways on (but not weave in August when we return to Polish!). El Chalten - tiny, little, with the empty shelves, an Internet site directly to a really, with fantastic views of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre pointed. Yes, even we thought that we will have quite as El Chalten. Because when we'd leave when the We saw what we had to see, when I waited on the roadside exit, trying to catch a hitch all day (WARNING, WARNING! Catching the foot on the side of the road we met a fellow in geography!), It turned out that the gets this way in the northern direction Ruta 40 we have no chance.

Ruta Nacional 40 . legendary, leading through beautiful areas i. ..
cursed by drivers and hitchhikers.

reason? The road is gravel, in a deplorable state. On the next bus to Perito Moreno, the last two vacancies waited 5 days. For a variety nicknamed further flood threat in the tent (the plans of sleeping in the hut with an ATM failed when skleilismy the garbage bags of them doing covers for mate, sleeping bag and myself. The plan worked, because when you have already packed in bags, like a corpse wrapped We lay and waited until we begin to leak floor - it stopped raining! bags with rubbish in the miracles.) El Chalten pozegnalo our 2.5-hour waiting for late bus (see photo). Really We left from there with relief ...


Cudny Fitz Roy. In the full day, at night in the moonlight and sunrise.


Waiting for the bus to "train" in El Chaltén. Looked like the homeless, wrapped in sleeping bags, toes were falling off the cold. Construction of the terminal is in full swing! Construction of the building is, indeed, is an information board, yes - the artist, the price of the project, yes. Only 9 days not seen any worker who moved to brick though. So in three words: siesta, fiesta, Mañana.

next day, in the afternoon we arrived to the town of Perito Moreno. The city is quite expansive as the name of the village - 3500 inhabitants. We get off the bus, just time for siesta. I already begin to break down with no further we went right away ... Neither a soul, but the wind is raging on the road and poured dust on his eyes. We are going ahead in search of any campground. These streets such bland, these shops so empty, barred ... Marnie will be our attempt to look like a hitchhiking trip from there. If it turns out, with no seats in coaches for the next day ...

But it was only a moment of weakness! We've drifted to the first encountered "camping." Barely approach to the gate investigate situations - a small house, a simple and poor as all around, with many small trawniczek, some drivers, two tents on the cross. And then goes to our owner, speaks to us with such speed that we can not keep up. Almost anything we do not understand, do not know about is happening, we do not know how to find in his kitchen, the book draws entries honoring Polish tourists, gesturing, smiling. Totally insane. This already is Raul. Raul, with whom we spent the next two days, we fell from the sky just like an angel. Hospitality, a good heart, picked up on the help of the spirit that we felt like we just started the trip, fatigue is gone, he added energy to us. Evenings, we recite their own poems, treated the all I had (and had their own vegetable garden, which was just a blessing for us. chives, parsley, peas and fresh salad ...). Anyone who will go to the Perito Moreno, porzuconemu somewhere in the middle of the wilds of the northern part of the province of Santa Cruz, with all my heart you can stop for a while on Minicampingu Raul. If only, in order to know it. Some will say that the madman. Maybe a little, and lives in his swecie, but it is really a great man, cares tremendously about camping. Certainly we find that after these two months is already Miniamping Raül was the cleanest and most well kept the place in which up to now we find ourselves. The Perito Moreno tried to hitch a ride to the Cueva de las Manos (in mountain boots because apparently after a walk can Ruta 40 lethal scorpions) - cave, the walls that appear paintings dating back more than 9000 years. Unfortunately. 4h looking at your feet or just do not accidentally crush a scorpion, and nothing. No one even stopped. Unfortunately will not look to us with their own eyes the Cueva de las Manos. Tomorrow we're going to Esquel! (Coach, because in the last minute we managed to buy tickets for him - driving by at the rate we would have no chance).

with Raul on Minicampingu

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stuck at the Fitz Roy

a little while as the price and availability of Internet development przystopowaly our blog. Unfortunately, still waiting for good conditions in order to include photos from the last close two weeks. And they were interesting ... we saw practically speaking the most important and most beautiful places of Patagonia. Impression that they exerted on us Glaciar Perito Moreno and views of Fitz Roy is difficult to describe. We are in El Chalten, unfortunately, for some five days longer than we expected - it is extremely difficult for stocks to get out. The village has 1,500 inhabitants, every other day and it's buses that we were able to get tickets on Monday to Friday is a miracle. The hitchhiking resigned after one day waiting on the sidelines - suggestions you reach the south, yes we had, but unfortunately, in general we are not interested. Way to the north - the famous Ruta 40 - everyone who passes alive. By nearly 600 km gravel and in really bad condition. Well, wypytalismy here is a random drivers, because we would probably sit on the sidelines the next day ... Anyway, on Saturday at noon we reach the city of Perito Moreno (the town, because he already has 3,500 inhabitants), and maybe from there we will attach the data to post some nice views ...

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Torres del Paine.

Post a short but concrete: at last we were in Torres del Paine, and with their own eyes we saw these beautiful views. Park enchants. Wilderness at your fingertips ... Photos and longer comments later, but now will be aimed in the direction of El Calafate, where we will end tomorrow. And then ... National Park Los Glaciares, Perito Moreno Glacier, El Chalten, Fitz Roy ...