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El Bolson - San Carlos de Bariloche.

El Bolson subsequent visits and farewell dinner with the pilots of Aeroclub. In total, sat with them half a day, drinking mate, talking on all subjects that only saliva on the language will bring. And dreaming ... dreaming about flying! Amazingly, we were only their first visitors.

with Mario and Alejandro (with Polish roots) spent a evening.
possible that we still have a chance to meet in Poland!

My
Car ¨ °!

The next day we finally managed to catch some interest on the Ruta 40! Distance is not did the special impression (from El Bolson to Bariloche is just 120km - Argentinian conditions is less than ° a stone's throw ¨). Impressed us was that it stopped a pick-up carrying cherries. So in the midst of the cherry, with a raging wind in your hair started to travel. Disappoint in August just as the driver after a certain time (when only a fellow got out) invited us inside. Maybe, well, on the other hand ...
to San Carlos de Bariloche we arrived without any surprises-smoothly and evenly on the asphalt (which is placed here only less than 10 years ago). City surprised us in appearance, although they already we were inclined to what is seen by the guides and pictures from the Internet. But it is for us, after driving from the north of Patagonia to the south and back, just do not like Argentina. Resort, the crowds of tourists, hotel hotel, chocolate factory, museums, stylized market. Everything pulls tourists to empty wallets. Bariloche - situated on Lake Nahuel Huapi, national park of the same name - which actually has to offer - around is simply beautiful.

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we become the wind and fruuuu smiglo ....

El Bolson. City hippisowska really envelops the atmosphere. The main square is obstapiony crowds. Crowds of backpackers, mostly Argentines, as well as families who attracts a large extent from Buenos Aires the holiday trip. City surrounded by mountains in the Andes, near the border with Chile. Situated in a green valley - the climate is completely different than in the dry Esquel and Perito Moreno. Here goes half of our trip. We intend to "celebrate" and we're going to watching the match River Plate - Boca Juniors in the local pub. Truly Latin American atmosphere:).

It's not the end of the attraction ... El Bolson has its own flying club. Early in the morning, with a smile glued to his face like a banana, I thought only about this, in order to break away from the earth. And it happened! Slightly starawa Cessna floats us into the air. Oh, those views ... snow-capped peaks, rivers, valleys opening up beneath our feet. Dolatujemy the Park National Lago Puelo - between the hills pours the blue lake. Just wonderfully ...

with our remote control - Mario


Andy ...


... and aperture to the Río Azul Lago Puelo

Another interesting thing - the runway is our old Dromader Polish production, whose Argetnynczycy they use as a firefighting aircraft in the event of fires. ..
What a pleasant surprise, to see a well-known since childhood, "PZL" on the propeller
.

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Esquel - Trevelin.

Chubut. Province, which has so far accounted for perhaps the most to our taste. Not only because of the atmosphere (well, just perfect, 26 degrees, the sun - neither cold nor too hot), but the nature of cities. Natural values \u200b\u200b- as everywhere so far - compelling. Self Esquel (nearly 40 000 inhabitants) is situated between the picturesque mountains of severe slopes and jagged peaks. Well, as a backpacker I have to mention of course the prices. Just available. And of course we could not bypass the huge - if not the largest outside the nearby National Park, Los Alerces - a tourist attraction, which is an old Patagonian express La Trochita . A beautiful steam locomotive stretching string of small, wooden wagons narrow gauge lines. And in every car crowds of tourists, who bought a ride for the sum kilkunastokilometrowa "niebackpackerskie.


In Esquel we spend three days in the meantime visit the nearby town of Trevelin - highly recommended in Lonely Planet. So we went - and how! However, the term Trevelin as "postcard-pretty" is probably a bit exaggerated. Trevelin is two times bigger than the Perito Moreno, actually nicer. Visible Welsh character (perhaps only three - four places in the city, although I will not argue, because I was not in Wales, so I do not know!). What we should pay attention to the main square, from which radial streets radiate like the spokes of the wheels. As the city Argentinian is really a sensation. But already the square next to the beginning of a typical, regular grid of streets, dividing the city in "blocks". Offsite should even see the church of the Welsh character and one - two teahouses. In Trevelin spent pore siesta. As probably half of the residents, lay in the shade of big trees in the square and watched as a few older Argentyczykow playing a game (using discs, closer to us not known) at the doping wives.

Our next goal is El Bolson! Dominated in the 70s by hippies.

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Addendum: Torres del Paine - Perito Moreno.

Once the hill, sometimes uphill. During these first three weeks of the new year saw a really beautiful place. And were also the first moments of resignation (which Patagonia can quickly quell his landscapes).

all began with Chile Torres del Paine, which, as we have accepted graciously when it comes to the weather (read: we had a chance to see the famous' torresy "in all its glory, but unfortunately only from afar; of other hand, many tourists, whom we met so far had to override the internet or photos with a guide ...). The second day, when he finally we have come to the same vantage point, unfortunately, covered the tops of the clouds in August. Hope stupid mother - sat stubbornly in place of 3h. It got to and from multiplier, terribly windy, so in a small cave under a huge boulder waited the sun. Sun was, yes, but after other side of the valley - which also had its charms, because when it rained on our side we could admire a beautiful rainbow. And when wyludnilo longer rest we had the honor to be witnesses to snap a piece of rock, which they scattered in the "small" Poppy got the idea to the lake in Torres del Paine. The weather deteriorated overnight and we had to spend guards in the tent of the National Park because we began to leak again. As it turned out , tent guards (the guards were sleeping in a hut) leaked even more. On the way to the exit of the Park we found the Polish language. And so began our adventure continued ...




in Torres del Paine we met a few graduates of the Inter-Environmental Studies , whom is known for great our old building WGiSR. There were so many common themes. And besides, common theme was also in Warsaw 'Shop Travelers'! Justin and Michelle because of the very short time you can devote to rent a car rental would be more 'mobile'. It ended up so that with them we went from Puerto Natales to Argentina in the direction of El Calafate. And in El Calafate - oriented 100% on last wyduszenie centavos pocket backpackers - shop at the souvenir shop, with regional products, logos everywhere characteristic "windstopperow" (which just does not say the Patagonia is doing a career), "gore-TeX", "vibramow. Approach to the tourist as the money is mine Turks zniechcajace awful. What, unfortunately, find out you can not just at the gas station, on which liter of petrol to foreigners is a half times more expensive than for locals, but also at the entrance to Los Glaciares National Park ... We paid 150% of the ticket price of admission to the park, which had to pay our friends a Germany - two days earlier. A change of prices did not know even the administration of the National Park Los Glaciares, in which you wanted to get comprehensive information, and dz iewczyna charging for admission, the ¿Porque a question? responded casually: "I do not know. Because the price change in August." Patagonia is probably unique in the world when it comes to unexpected price increases. It is strongly undercut our wings, but an hour later we stood before the forehead Glacier Perito Moreno.
I forgot about everything ... (Yes, we forgot because of its amazing look, it seemed that just drips from the sky. And the blue color of the ice, they pierce crackles called via continuous movement!)


From El Calafate, still with Justin and Michal We traveled to El Chalten, on the north edge of Los Glaciares National Park. Here too we the road after the two parted ways on (but not weave in August when we return to Polish!). El Chalten - tiny, little, with the empty shelves, an Internet site directly to a really, with fantastic views of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre pointed. Yes, even we thought that we will have quite as El Chalten. Because when we'd leave when the We saw what we had to see, when I waited on the roadside exit, trying to catch a hitch all day (WARNING, WARNING! Catching the foot on the side of the road we met a fellow in geography!), It turned out that the gets this way in the northern direction Ruta 40 we have no chance.

Ruta Nacional 40 . legendary, leading through beautiful areas i. ..
cursed by drivers and hitchhikers.

reason? The road is gravel, in a deplorable state. On the next bus to Perito Moreno, the last two vacancies waited 5 days. For a variety nicknamed further flood threat in the tent (the plans of sleeping in the hut with an ATM failed when skleilismy the garbage bags of them doing covers for mate, sleeping bag and myself. The plan worked, because when you have already packed in bags, like a corpse wrapped We lay and waited until we begin to leak floor - it stopped raining! bags with rubbish in the miracles.) El Chalten pozegnalo our 2.5-hour waiting for late bus (see photo). Really We left from there with relief ...


Cudny Fitz Roy. In the full day, at night in the moonlight and sunrise.


Waiting for the bus to "train" in El Chaltén. Looked like the homeless, wrapped in sleeping bags, toes were falling off the cold. Construction of the terminal is in full swing! Construction of the building is, indeed, is an information board, yes - the artist, the price of the project, yes. Only 9 days not seen any worker who moved to brick though. So in three words: siesta, fiesta, Mañana.

next day, in the afternoon we arrived to the town of Perito Moreno. The city is quite expansive as the name of the village - 3500 inhabitants. We get off the bus, just time for siesta. I already begin to break down with no further we went right away ... Neither a soul, but the wind is raging on the road and poured dust on his eyes. We are going ahead in search of any campground. These streets such bland, these shops so empty, barred ... Marnie will be our attempt to look like a hitchhiking trip from there. If it turns out, with no seats in coaches for the next day ...

But it was only a moment of weakness! We've drifted to the first encountered "camping." Barely approach to the gate investigate situations - a small house, a simple and poor as all around, with many small trawniczek, some drivers, two tents on the cross. And then goes to our owner, speaks to us with such speed that we can not keep up. Almost anything we do not understand, do not know about is happening, we do not know how to find in his kitchen, the book draws entries honoring Polish tourists, gesturing, smiling. Totally insane. This already is Raul. Raul, with whom we spent the next two days, we fell from the sky just like an angel. Hospitality, a good heart, picked up on the help of the spirit that we felt like we just started the trip, fatigue is gone, he added energy to us. Evenings, we recite their own poems, treated the all I had (and had their own vegetable garden, which was just a blessing for us. chives, parsley, peas and fresh salad ...). Anyone who will go to the Perito Moreno, porzuconemu somewhere in the middle of the wilds of the northern part of the province of Santa Cruz, with all my heart you can stop for a while on Minicampingu Raul. If only, in order to know it. Some will say that the madman. Maybe a little, and lives in his swecie, but it is really a great man, cares tremendously about camping. Certainly we find that after these two months is already Miniamping Raül was the cleanest and most well kept the place in which up to now we find ourselves. The Perito Moreno tried to hitch a ride to the Cueva de las Manos (in mountain boots because apparently after a walk can Ruta 40 lethal scorpions) - cave, the walls that appear paintings dating back more than 9000 years. Unfortunately. 4h looking at your feet or just do not accidentally crush a scorpion, and nothing. No one even stopped. Unfortunately will not look to us with their own eyes the Cueva de las Manos. Tomorrow we're going to Esquel! (Coach, because in the last minute we managed to buy tickets for him - driving by at the rate we would have no chance).

with Raul on Minicampingu

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stuck at the Fitz Roy

a little while as the price and availability of Internet development przystopowaly our blog. Unfortunately, still waiting for good conditions in order to include photos from the last close two weeks. And they were interesting ... we saw practically speaking the most important and most beautiful places of Patagonia. Impression that they exerted on us Glaciar Perito Moreno and views of Fitz Roy is difficult to describe. We are in El Chalten, unfortunately, for some five days longer than we expected - it is extremely difficult for stocks to get out. The village has 1,500 inhabitants, every other day and it's buses that we were able to get tickets on Monday to Friday is a miracle. The hitchhiking resigned after one day waiting on the sidelines - suggestions you reach the south, yes we had, but unfortunately, in general we are not interested. Way to the north - the famous Ruta 40 - everyone who passes alive. By nearly 600 km gravel and in really bad condition. Well, wypytalismy here is a random drivers, because we would probably sit on the sidelines the next day ... Anyway, on Saturday at noon we reach the city of Perito Moreno (the town, because he already has 3,500 inhabitants), and maybe from there we will attach the data to post some nice views ...

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Torres del Paine.

Post a short but concrete: at last we were in Torres del Paine, and with their own eyes we saw these beautiful views. Park enchants. Wilderness at your fingertips ... Photos and longer comments later, but now will be aimed in the direction of El Calafate, where we will end tomorrow. And then ... National Park Los Glaciares, Perito Moreno Glacier, El Chalten, Fitz Roy ...